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//-->N Scale Modellerwww.nscale.org.auIssue 1 ~ August 2009• Modelling the EL in brass - John Miller• Converting an Alco PA1 into an Australian 900 class - Chris Finney• Laser-cut Wood Building kits - Paul KaluschkeN Scale ModellerWelcome to the first issue of the Web-based “N Scale Modeller” magazine published in Australia.This publication is available Free as an Internet download. The publishing team members are: Graham Cocks, Trevor May andDavid Bromage. With the push towards more Web-based publications these days, this is an opportunity to support N scalemodellers in Australia with modern publishing techniques. It is intended that it be published quarterly and that on-line Web extraswill gradually be introduced where appropriate for particular articles, eg more photos, videos, etc.This magazine is a follow-on of the hard copy N Scale Modelling in Australia magazine which ran for seven issues from September2006 to November 2008. This basically came about due to substantial support indicated in a poll on the Australian N Scale emailgroup hosted on Yahoo!, especially from people willing to submit articles.As it is Web-based, there are no printing or postage costs, as is the case with hard copy publications, and hence it is available to theN scale modeller for free. As usual, as with most hobbies, preparation of publications relies on voluntary support. These days, themajority of railway modellers have access to the Internet. A bonus with Web-based publications is that colour does not cost moreas is the case with hard copy publications. Another bonus is that links to resource, manufacturer, etc Websites can be includedand automatic transfer can occur on selection.This inaugural issue is only 20 pages in size, just to get the magazine off the ground. As articles and other items are received forpublication, subsequent issues should be much larger. So, the Team now asks for those authors and budding-authors, who havebeen waiting patiently to submit articles, to forward them now via the Internet. Submission details may be viewed elsewhere in thisIssue.We hope that this Web-Mag reaches your expectations and we would appreciate any comments or suggestions that you mayhave.Publication TeamGraham CocksTrevor MayDavid BromagePublished by nscale.org.auEmail.......................................... e-mag@nscale.org.au______________________________Articles may not be copied or reprinted without thepermission of the respective authors. Orginal articles inthis publication may not be copied or reprinted withoutthe permission of the publisher. The publisher accepts noresponsibility for articles submitted by contributors.Modellers wishing to submit articles should take noteof the following technical requirements. Photos must beforwarded as separate items:1. Text may be submitted using Word or plain text by emailif it’s a short item. We can do the formatting.2. Photos to be in JPG (JPEG) format. 300dpi or better. Wecan reduce the size if necessary.3. Text should indicate where a photo should be inserted,eg (Fig 1 placed here)Assistance with article preparation is available from theTeam if required.All correspondence and submissions is via the publication’semail address:e-mag@nscale.org.auThe Team: Graham Cocks, Trevor May and David BromageContentsBuilding the N Scale Australia EL Class Etched Brass Kit ...................................3Product News ...................................................................................................8SAR English Electric 900 Class Locos: An N Scale Modelling Project ..............11Building Laser-cut Wood kits from Little Building Co ........................................15Cover:GM6 rolls through ‘Michelago Station’, Peter Dinham’s AusTrak modules. Photo by Rodger Maconachie2www.nscale.org.auIssue 1 ~ August 2009Building the N Scale Australia EL Class Etched Brass Kitby John MillerThe N-Scale Australia EL Class kit comes as a set of flat etches withno instructions but do not be deterred by this, as it is a very easy kit toassemble and any modeller with basic soldering skills will enjoy buildingit. Unlike the AN Class locomotive, the EL has a relatively flat roof withno protruding fan rings or sub-assemblies and this very much simplifiesthe assembly process.Due to the lack of instructions, it is imperative copies of Antony Fitzgerald’s articlesin the December 1991 and February 1992 issues of AMRM are obtained as theyinclude an excellent drawing and detail photos. A copy of the N-Scale Australia ANClass kit instructions is a useful source of general information and I recommend acopy of them also be obtained if you purchase this kit.The detail of the etched parts (particularly the various grilles) is very fine and caremust be taken when removing them from the etch and during assembly.CHASSIS SELECTION AND MODIFICATIONI currently standardise my mainline locomotive fleet wherever possible by usingATLAS chassis fitted with their “scale speed” motor. This is because ATLAS sparesare available at the click of the mouse, their chassis are excellent runners and theycan be speed matched using the “scale speed” motor.Currently there is no ATLAS model I am aware of that exactly matches the EL bogiewheelbase and overall wheelbase dimensions. In light of this I have used an ATLAS/KATO SD7 mechanism with the bogies simply rotated 180 degrees. This gives anacceptable overall scale wheelbase approximately 300 mm / 1 foot short of theprototype. The ATLAS bogies have alonger wheelbase than the prototype,and results in less space between thebogies to fit the fuel tank and otherequipment. Therefore, the fuel tank areahas to be selectively compressed.Alternative ATLAS chassis for thislocomotive include the SD24, SD26and SD35 but the outer ends of thebogie gear towers will need to be slightlybevelled to provide swing clearancewhen they a rotated 180 degrees.Issue 1 ~ August 2009About the AuthorI have been an N-Scale modeller for over twenty five years and before that Ihad British OO and O scale trains. When I initially moved to N-Scale I modelledthe Pennsylvania Railroad and the Norfolk & Western Railway in the 1950’stransition era and built up quite a collection of custom detailed steam and diesellocomotives along with a fleet of appropriate rolling stock.A change to modelling the WAGR in the 1990’s era occurred some seventeen yearsago when I built a small layout based on West Merredin. I am a modeller ratherthan a collector and get great pleasure from building prototypically accuratemodels that are painted and weathered to look authentic. The majority of mylocomotives, rollingstock and structures are scratchbuilt, kitbashed or kit builtand to date I own only three genuinely RTR wagons.To me one of the greatest pleasures of our hobby is sharing knowledge and communicating with othermodellers and I find the internet invaluable for this purpose. I also enjoy writing modelling articles for fellowmodellers and a computer, flatbed scanner and digital camera have become essential tools on my work benchin order to document the progress of a project for later publication.www.nscale.org.au3A short, four-rung length of brass ladder stock was fitted to both sides of the leadbogie directly under the vestibule doors.Fig 4 illustrates the original SD7 chassis compared to the modified EL chassis.KIT CONSTRUCTIONThe basic tools I use to build etched brass models are a “Hold and Fold”, assortedhardwood blocks, 50-watt soldering iron, hobby knife, smooth jawed pliers, jeweller’sneedle files, sanding sticks and a fibreglass eraser. The soldering flux I prefer is a10% phosphoric acid solution. With the EL kit the “Hold And Fold” is an essentialtool as a number of long folds are required in close proximity to large openings inthe etch. I own an 8 inch “Hold and Fold” which is available in Australia from I RModels:www.irmodels.comPrior to commencing assembly, I recommend opening out the windows in thevestibule doors and mansard roof with needle files. I use a simple jig made from twopieces of fluted plastic card and a couple of bulldog clips to support and protect theetch during the filing process.I modified the chassis block by removing the top 1.5 mm from the frame halvesalong with a section of the fuel tank as shown in fig 1. A jeweller’s saw and flat filewere used to do this after first disassembling the mechanism to avoid contaminationwith metal filings.The ATLAS fuel tank forms the core for the modified fuel tank. The sides weresanded flat and it was shortened in length. Styrene rod was used to fabricate themain reservoirs and fuel filler pipes. Various styrene sections were used to formthe battery boxes, air brake equipment, tool boxes and fuel sight glasses. The fueltank/battery box etch had the tank section shortened before being folded-up andoverlayed onto the core. (See fig 2)Modifications to the bogies involved removing the brake cylinders, outboard brakeshoes and hangers and the tops of the inboard brake hangers. The holes in the sideframes were filled with TAMIYA putty where necessary and new holes drilled usingphotos as a guide. SUNRISE brake cylinders were fitted with the park brake cylinderbeing extended using brass rod and electrical insulation. The shock absorbers werebuilt from smaller brass rod and electrical insulation. (See fig 3)4www.nscale.org.auIssue 1 ~ August 2009was soldered together, all the external joints that needed filling were built-up bypad soldering (building up a layer of solder) over the joints and then sanding to thecorrect profile with a 400-grit emery board.Some of the detail parts were also soldered to the body shell including the exhaust,the roof panel between the exhaust and the radiator roof grille, the front anti-climberand the marker light etch inside the nose. All the other detail parts were attachedusing super glue including all the grilles, headlights and air conditioner. To ensuregood adhesion with super glue clean the parts to be joined with a fibreglass eraserpen and then wipe with a cotton bud dipped in methylated spirit. When attachingthe grilles I applied the glue with a wire applicator from the outside of the model so Icould position the grille accurately. Capillary action draws the glue into the joint andexcess glue can be easily cleaned off the body after it has set – one of the joys ofworking with brass.The air-conditioner unit was modified by cutting the two ends off the etch. A pieceof surplus brass was cut to the same length as modified air-conditioner and 3 mmnarrower in width. It was than soldered centrally to the underside of the part. Thetwo sides were then folded slightly downwards 1.5 mm in from the edge to give theunit the required relief. Use the photos and plan as a guide.Fig 5 shows the etch in the jig and illustrates the difference in the appearance of thewindows after filing.The next step is to clean the etched parts with 400-grit emery paper. A fibreglasseraser pen is useful for cleaning in the hard to get at areas.Before starting to fold-up the main body etch, I made a light pass with a hobbyknife along each of the etched fold lines. This assists the folding process but be sureto use only a light touch. I also removed the cab front from the body etch prior tofolding for two reasons. It makes the folding process simpler and it is much easier tofit and solder the cab front with its multiple angles to the front of the body.The actual folding process is simple using the “Hold and Fold” and a suitably sizedhardwood block but take particular care when doing the folds near the radiatorgrilles to the rear of the locomotive, as there is very little material to clamp onto.The AN instructions are of great assistance in understanding how to progress thefolding process. The body is basically a box and was soldered up from the inside,reheating and adjusting the joints until I was happy with them. Once the basic shellIssue 1 ~ August 2009www.nscale.org.au5 [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]